(I wonder how many times that title has been used in reference to photography. I bet a BUNCH of times!)
Oh, Exposure, my clever foe. Why must you insist on wrecking havoc on my photos?
As I promised, I'm here to share with you a bit about what I'm learning. Have I mentioned that I'm working on exposure? This is a difficult thing to share tips on because a). I obviously struggle with it and b). once you switch your DSLR into manual mode, this is initially the main difference between a point and shoot and a DSLR, meaning it's a HUGE topic (and if you don't understand why that's a problem, see point a.)
I shall do my best though! Here we go...
![]() | |||||||||
| SOOC Underexposed. ISO 160 SS 200, f/2.0 |
![]() |
| Properly exposed, after Lightroom. |
We'll start off with SHUTTER SPEED today, so you don't get too overwhelmed, ok? Relax. If I can figure this stuff out, you can too. It just takes time and patience to get it right. Quietly set your camera to M for manual! (Now you can yell and jump around because Yay! you did it!), set your aperture to 5.6 (or a lower # if you want and can), leave it there and go find some nice light (evening light or open shade. Stay away from direct sunlight.) Aight, on we go...
Shutter Speed.
These are your numbers like 40, 60, 80, 100, 160, 200, 250 and up into 1000... etc. This is the speed of your shutter (revolutionary explanation, I know!). This is essentially what makes your photo tack sharp or completely blurry. The higher your numbers, the faster the shutter opens and closes - freezing the image in time. So, if you have very low numbers, you can easily get blurry photos if ANYTHING moves because you're allowing your shutter to capture motion just by having it open longer. (Does that make sense?). The longer it's open, the more motion it's going to capture resulting in a blurry image. Have I beaten this horse enough? I hope.
Things to keep in mind:
- Use your meter inside the camera's viewfinder! That's the little line of itsy bitsy lines and a 0 in the middle. You want to be on the 0 to get correct exposure. It's super easy if you pay attention to this (but it doesn't necessarily mean you'll always have correct exposure. BELIEVE ME!)
- Lots of Light use High Numbers
- Less Light use Lower numbers. The numbers are actually fractions of a second. So 200 is really 1/200 and is faster than 40 (1/40), if that helps.
- The general rule is when photographing kids or anything that moves quickly and unexpectedly, don't go lower than 160 or you'll most likely get blurry images. I'd compensate with a lower aperture or higher ISO. More on that in the the weeks to come.
- When you're photographing kids (or anything that moves unexpectedly), keep your shutter speed at 160 or higher (you don't want to go lower, or you'll probably get blurry images) Hmmm... didn't I just say this? This must be incredibly important. YES, it is!
![]() |
| This one is pretty close to proper exposure. ISO 160 SS 250 f/ 2.0 |
![]() |
| I upped the exposure not even a half stop in Lightroom. |







1 comments:
Have I said how awesome you are! I love the fist shot it is amazing. I love how you love photography!
Post a Comment